Linear throttle curves can cause the 400DH to heat up in hover. If you use a curve of 0,25,50,75,100 the motor will be running 25% rpm in hover and this is very inefficient. I recommend either a 0,85,85,85,100 or 0,60,85,85,100. If 100% is too high an RPM for your helicopter than use 85 as your max RPM. New flyers should consider reducing the max throttle to a number that makes them comfortable, but my point is that higher RPM and lower pitch will make your heli more stable and run the motor in a sweeter efficiency zone. Use pitch to change the climb or hover pitch rate while flying. Low pitch and high rpm will provide a more stable helicopter in hover and when you go from low to high throttle the rpm does not have to increase, so your heli will be more responsive. Scroll down and check the Speed Control Setup Instructions.
LostSoul has graciously contributed this video and photos. He's using our 22 amp ESC, 400DH Brushless motor and a 5v ParkBEC.
ESky King Helicopter
3 HS-55 on the cyclic, and HS-50 on the tail, and the Telebee/Zoom heading lock gyro.
Initially LostSoul reported losing power during flight and at one point after flying around for 5 minutes and in a hover his heli dropped then picked up again. We determined that the BEC might be overheating since it is overloaded with all the servo's. So after adding a 5 volt 6.2 gram ParkBEC, he reports:
"I've had the ParkBEC in my heli now for a few weeks and it's flying wonderfully. The little bit of cutout I seemed to have been having is completely gone now. I picked the 5V version of the ParkBEC and I'm very happy with it. My heli seems to be as well :) "
Click image to see video
Kyle Stacy 9 year old RC Pilot and has been flying for three years flys a Shogun for the first time ever in this video with a JustGoFly 400DH Brushless Motor. His Dad Ray Stacy takes the shogun up first to check it out, then Kyle goes right into it - you'll have to watch the video to see. He sure makes it look easy.
I took this video myself so I know for a fact that Kyle is not only able to fly a Heli, but flys like a pro. I almost hung up my transmitter when I asked him how many hours he has on the Shogun, and he said - this was my first time. Video taped in front of a few hundred people - can you imagine. Expect great things from Kyle - he already has the skill, confidence and great support from his Dad. Check out his web site: Kyle Rocks
I got to fly my “heavy” Shogun with the 400dh in it. and a TP 210, so this little fellow has some additional weight to carry around…
This flight lasted 14.5 minutes…. I am sure you will be able to tell that I was not lacking for power. A lot of people were asking what I had in it for power. This place was way to small to really let her “rip”!!!!!!!!!! (the Pod And Boom with a 3s2p is un-real!!! Still dialing that one in though)
Shogun in a Styrene Jet Ranger fuselage with the 400dh, HubDave belt drive, and (4) hs56 servos with a CSM 560 Micro gyro.. CC25 and Ultimate BEC, & TP 2100.
"I first bought this motor 5 months ago for my shogun thought it was too small to do any thing … boy was I wrong. I read on runryder that another fellow was using it in his Trex and decided to give it a try. With the setup I have this thing was made for this little bird. You can't go wrong with this beast."
Blinged out as you can possibly get, I also modified it with T-Rex arms, flybar, paddles etc, and a few other heli parts from others as well on it. It is unreal, it will turn itself into knots with this motor.
This zoom has well over 50 tweaking hours of inner race spacer, cnc spacers etc to get everything just perfect. And as obvious allot of cash into this little guy, there is not a single zbend and absolutely zero slop on the zoom.
Our new batch of 400's are a sleek black color. We decided to leave the blue pictures below and add the black, since the blue pictures are just too gorgeous and the design of the motor has not changed. Additional mounting information added at the bottom of this page.
The tapered (widened) hole goes toward the motor body. It starts a nice amount by hand so things line up very true to begin with. The back of the bell should be against a nice flat, smooth, hard surface like the bed of a drill press or face of a vice. You will notice that the shaft runs all the way through the bell and sits flush with the rear of the bell for good support while pressing the pinion on. Push the pinion on the proper distance using nice controlled force. People use vices, drill presses and arbor presses for this purpose. I favor the arbor press myself.
How far to push the pinion on
You should measure the distance from mounting face of the speed 400 motor you are replacing to the base of its pinion and work to duplicate that spacing. The two times I've watched this procedure done the mechanic first got he pinion close but a bit high and then proceeded to test fit in the frame, back to the press, test fit, back to the press etc until the height was just perfect. With the installations I've observed, the pinion hole did not quite come flush with the top of the motor shaft. (There was a bit of empty space above the shaft).
Our heli wiz did not use any loctite. We have not seen a pinion "spin" yet without the use of loctite. Once one does I'm sure we will recommend using one of the green loctite variants;) They do set very quickly and that might make adjusting pinion height difficult. I think the factory did a good job with hole diameter on the pinions.
Mounting the motor in the frame
You will need to "hoe out" the mounting holes in the helicopter frame for the motor a bit to move it a tiny bit closer to the large rotor spur. Once you adjust the main rotor to motor mesh as perfectly as possible loosen the
4 tiny screws that mount the tail rotor boom and slide it to the motor pinion and establish that mesh properly. Take your time and get these as perfect as possible. Too much or too little pressure will either increase friction (bad) or create such a loose fit that teeth might be prone to strip (also bad). The secret is to get the main rotor mesh perfect first and then work on the tail rotor mesh.
Leave the brake off - which is the default setting. That's all she wrote.
Phoenix 25 setup
Standard timing, soft start, Brake disabled!!!!!!!
Cut off voltage: 3 Volts per cell on LiPo's with Soft Cutoff or on NiMh or NiCd - disabled. You really want the cut off as low as possible. You don't want the cut off kicking in while flying. You should detect the low voltage and land under power, rather than trying to land under soft cut off. But many have stated a concern about over discharging their LiPo's and possibly damaging them. So I have changed the setting to 3volts per cell cut off / Soft Cutoff.
Current Limiting: Over-current - disabled.
Brake Type: Brake Disabled.
Throttle Type: Fixed
Our test pilot has not had success getting the Gov mode to work properly but fixed works well.
3-D throttle curve is 100, 75, 65, 75, 100.
Electronic Timing Advance: Standard advance timing.
Cutoff Type: Soft Cutoff
Soft Start: Soft Start
Brake Disabled VERY IMPORTANT if you don't do this, you will strip gears.
Throttle type - fixed, could not make the governor mode work Auto acted funny.
This setting could damage a LiPo - so decide before using this if you can detect low voltage and prefer to land before coming close to cut off.
CC P25 - seven settings: 1,5,5,2,2,2,2
This is safer for
your batteries but could require a quick landing when cut off hits.
Jan 5, 05 - change for 3S 11.1v LiPo's:
CC P25 - seven settings: 5,3,5,2,2,2,2
for 2S 7.4v LiPo's:
CC P25 - seven settings: 3,3,5,2,2,2,2
This has been modified since LiPo's don't like it when you drain them below 3 volts per cell. I think most Heli Pilots can feel the loss of power near cut off and know to land their heli. Well this enforces the landing - but hopefully it will not cause any harm since the cut off is set to SOFT. Please drop me a note if you have any issues with the prescribed setup.
Falcon Pilot is using: The collective curve is a straight line with 0 for bottom
stick and 100 for top stick. Hover is somewhere just above 1/2 stick when
upright, just below 1/2 stick when inverted. I am using just over 7 deg of
+ and - pitch, so when the stick is at the bottom, it is at -7 deg. when
the stick is at the top, +7 deg and 0 is in
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